Exclusive: Saiid Kobeisy Talks FW26 Couture in Paris

PARIS — Inside the quiet sanctuary of the House of Saiid Kobeisy’s showroom at 66 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the air carries a palpable sense of anticipation. Surrounded by the exquisite geometry and architectural drapes of his Fall/Winter 2026–2027 Haute Couture collection, Passage Privé, the Lebanese master of craftsmanship sits down with us to trace the evolution of his vision.

Long celebrated for creating structural armor and poetic narratives for the modern woman, Kobeisy’s latest offering is a breathtaking exploration of personal transformation, memory, and—in a highly anticipated pivot—the dawn of his expansion into menswear.

We spoke with the couturier on the heels of his July 8 presentation about the emotional resonance of details, capturing vulnerability, and redefining modern luxury.

On the Genesis of Passage Privé

Fashion Week Magazine: The atmosphere in the showroom today is incredibly evocative. Could you share the underlying philosophy and inspiration behind this collection, and how you envision the brand moving forward?

Saiid Kobeisy: Passage Privé is fundamentally a collection about the journey rather than just the arrival. I wanted to explore the transformative nature of personal growth and cultural exchange, drawing heavily from the refined elegance and artisanal discipline of the early twentieth century. When you look at the intricate details of each garment—the pixelated embroideries, the linear Art Deco motifs—you are looking at fragments of memory captured in fabric. Every piece is designed so that you don’t just see the aesthetic; you genuinely feel the underlying emotion. Moving forward, the house is continuing to ground itself in this kind of deep, emotive storytelling.

The Dawn of Kobeisy Menswear

FWM: A major talking point over the last few seasons has been your intentional stride into menswear. Now that the line is establishing its own rhythm, how do you continue to translate the core philosophy of the house into this territory? How do you define “true masculinity” through this current collection?

SK: Yes, expanding into menswear has been a natural evolution for us, allowing our signature craftsmanship to speak to a broader canvas. For me, defining true masculinity in modern tailoring isn’t about rigid archetypes; it’s about a balance of strength and self-possession. The men wearing these pieces should represent themselves with an unforced elegance and character. We’ve brought the same meticulous attention to detail, fabric interplay, and architectural precision from our womenswear into these tailored ensembles, offering men a way to project both commanding confidence and sophisticated restraint.

Embracing Vulnerability and the Modern Woman

FWM: Looking closely at the silhouettes, there is a masterful blend of structural rigidity and soft, flowing drapery. Do you believe that the modern woman needs a sense of visible vulnerability woven into her wardrobe?

SK: Absolutely. True power doesn’t exist without vulnerability; they are two sides of the same coin. In this collection, we used cutting-edge fabric techniques and sharp tailoring to provide structural presence, but balanced them with fluid georgettes, feathers, and open lace to let the softness breathe. A woman isn’t just one thing. She doesn’t spend her life in a single, rigid posture.

FWM: To that point, do you design with a specific muse in mind—perhaps a woman navigating her day from morning meetings to galas? Is it challenging to balance the conflicting desires of different women within a single collection?

SK: I don’t target a singular, static caricature of a woman. The modern audience we speak to experiences a dynamic life; she might require an elevated, impeccably tailored trench coat for her day-to-day commitments, and an opulent velvet or metallic lace gown by night. The creative challenge—and the ultimate joy—of being a couturier is resolving those seemingly conflicting desires. Instead of alienating different women, we embrace their varied facets. The collection is designed to be a fluid narrative where every woman can find a silhouette that mirrors her current state of identity and self-discovery.

Reflections on the Couture Journey

FWM: You have been presenting spectacular collections in Paris and globally for years. Looking back at your artistic journey, what is the single biggest lesson that has stuck with you? If you could go back to the beginning, is there anything you would change?

SK: The biggest lesson is to never compromise on the magnitude of your ideas. When you start with a grand vision, executing it will always present immense structural and technical challenges, but you must trust the process and the atelier. If I went back to the beginning, would I change anything? Honestly, every hurdle taught us the savior-faire we possess today. The challenges are exactly what push us to innovate. I wouldn’t trade those lessons because they shaped the identity of the house.

FWM: When a client walks into your Paris showroom and experiences Passage Privé, what is the one lasting impression you hope they take away with them?

SK: I want them to step inside and instantly absorb the emotional climate of the collection. More than remembering a specific color or a certain stitch, I want them to carry away the feeling of the space—that unforgettable sense of quiet elegance, intimate discovery, and transformation.

FWM: It is a triumph of a presentation. Can you tease anything about what is coming next season?

SK: (Smiles) For us, the mandate is always to keep innovating, pushing boundaries, and surprising our clients. The next chapter is already in motion.

This interview has been edited, and adapted from a conversation at the Saiid Kobeisy Paris showroom

All images courtesy of Saiid Kobeisy