BARBARA BUI FALL/WINTER 2024
The 2024-2025 Fall/Winter Collection by Barbara Bui is a fusion of classic elegance and rock attitude with sophisticated cuts and rebellious nonchalance. Getting back to basics, the designer unveils an intense wardrobe, with graphics that showcase the paradoxical strength and purity of the designs. The cinematographic, rockabilly silhouettes are sharp, sleek and drawn in a single stroke. This season, they appear in brilliant black, chic and bright, to match the models’ smokey eyes.
The timeless Barbara Bui wardrobe – jackets, perfectos, tuxedos, sheepskin coats and leather pants – creates a free and irreverent esthetic, very sharp and cut. From luxurious leathers to sophisticated velvets, each piece tells a unique story. The collection marks the return of slim-fit pants and pencil skirts, with a very nineties’ vibe. The collection’s flagship piece, the pencil skirt in leather, suit fabric or jersey Milano, gives a very sleek look. And platform walking boots bring a new twist to the silhouette, providing the mix of delicacy and strength that the designer loves so much. Leather is upgraded with pleated silk pants, lavallière tops, velvet jackets and backless tuxedo dresses, creating a look that is part glamour, part rock. With a choice of biker boots or the new take on cowboy boots. Zebra motifs, touches of ivory and stripes punctuate the collection, while the impeccable cuts and fluid silhouettes showcase the artisanal expertise of the House.
The collection also marks the comeback of the timeless perfecto, paired with masculine cigarette or wider-cut pants that flare out to cover the shoe, for an aesthetic that is both chic and casual. Jersey Milano, with a seventies’ feel, appears in pinafore dresses and tunic pant suits with a retro air. For a lady-like style, the “Kiss me” bag can be worn tucked under the shoulder. And highly structured whipcord wool
jackets add precision and elegance.
There are also very wintery designs, featuring cashmere coats that envelope the silhouette in a single gesture, oversized trench overcoats, exaggerated shawl-neck sweaters, Aran-style knitwear, flannel suits and velvet corduroy pants, bringing comfort and warmth, in a style with a British accent. The colorama gives pride of place to winter hues – red camel, marled beige, dove gray and khaki. While structured leather jackets with boxy lines are worn with chic pleated trousers, for a leather/flannel contrast. Laceless Derby shoes add a touch of authentic
chic, very English gentleman.
The “Costumes” line reveals a vibrant red – the collection’s flagship color – which bursts onto the scene in large men’s overcoats, three piece tailoring and an impertinent ivory tennis stripe for a very mafioso look.
In regular or oversized fit, as desired, jackets cut from masculine fabrics reveal flashy pink lining, the signature of the House. The tie, this season’s flagship accessory and a symbol of feminine emancipation, is an essential accompaniment to the silk shirt.
This season, the House’s iconic velvet suits and tone-on-tone silk shirts have gone pop, with shades of pomegranate, flashy blue and moss green. High- or low-waist pants, with or without pleats, complete the outfits with casual elegance. Lastly, python prints shake up silhouettes, reaffirming the audacious spirit of Barbara Bui.
FALL/WINTER 2024
All images courtsey of Barbara Bui