ALEXIS MABILLE Fall/Winter 2023/24
Alexis Mabille, the visionary couturier known for his kaleidoscopic creations, has once again mesmerized the fashion realm with a metamorphosis of couture into ready-to-wear. Following his resplendent couture show that boasted a spectrum of styles to suit every sensibility, Mabille distilled this opulence into a captivating collection of approximately 20 looks tailored for a clientele that craves couture elegance without the traditional constraints.
The essence of couture, with its extravagant inspirations, hues, and cuts, found its way into this more accessible line. Mabille shared his creative process, revealing how he reserved certain concepts from his couture musings for the ready-to-wear realm. “Every couture creation holds within it the seed of a ready-to-wear possibility,” he explained, unveiling his vision of envisioning each piece in pure white, subsequently infusing it with vibrant hues akin to “rainbow drops” to enliven the color palette.
Color, for Mabille, transcends the boundaries of seasons. In his words, “Color is like therapy for me.” Winter, typically associated with somber shades, became his canvas for a riot of hues that defy the conventional seasonal norms. The designer’s philosophy reshapes the perception of evening attire, reimagining it not in muted tones but in hues like vivacious apple green. This shift mirrors the evolving preferences of the younger generation, drawn to unconventional expressions of style characterized by galaxy hair, chunky footwear, and a blurring of night and day aesthetics.
The collection mirrors this zeitgeist with dresses resembling ethereal clouds crafted in coral satin organza, catering to an array of women and body shapes. Mabille’s delight stems from embracing movement over fixed silhouettes. By focusing on “exploding volumes” and experimenting with cuts, he eschews conventional constraints. A standout piece—a resplendent fluorescent yellow creation crafted from 18 meters of silk—pays homage to the iconic dancer Pina Bausch. Mabille envisions this garment as an embodiment of self-acceptance and joyous exuberance. “You could kick your heels to the sky, and there would still be this cascade of yellow. It’s self-accepting and fun,” he enthused.
Mabille’s transformative designs signify a departure from the traditional paradigms of fashion. They embrace a spirit of inclusivity, celebrating individuality and the unbridled freedom of expression. His creations transcend the boundaries of couture, seamlessly integrating opulence into the everyday, inviting everyone to experience the exhilaration of a chromatic symphony in their wardrobe.
Images courtsey of Alexis Mabille