CHRISTOPHER ESBER SPRING 2024 COLLECTION
Australian designer Christopher Esber made a striking debut in Paris, solidifying his position as a force in the global fashion scene. His eponymous label, now in its 11th year, has garnered a devoted following. Since his first appearance at Australian Fashion Week in 2010, Esber has been celebrated for his innovative party pieces and distinct staples, becoming a household name in Australian fashion. However, his brand has recently transcended its cult status, gaining widespread recognition with celebrities such as Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner, and Margot Robbie frequently donning his designs. This season marked a significant milestone as Esber’s steady ascent led to his first official show at Paris Fashion Week.
Central to Esber’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection were his signature lightly structured dresses, which seemed to drape effortlessly around the body, revealing subtle glimpses of skin. These pieces embodied his philosophy of allowing the fabric to move naturally, empowering the wearer and highlighting the female form with a refined sensuality. The collection drew heavily from nature, exploring how materials interact with the body to create a sense of primal belonging. The silhouettes, inspired by natural forms and crafted from materials that evoke the earth, moved organically, enveloping the body in a way that felt both familiar and innovative. The color palette, too, reflected this connection to nature, with shades reminiscent of weathered stone, sand, and other earthy tones, punctuated by bursts of butter yellow, pistachio, and red.
The collection opened with tailored pieces in herbaceous tones, including a striking pair of jeans layered under organza. This was followed by a series of dresses, tops, and skirts in crushed, translucent fabrics edged with alpaca fringing, evoking images of glaciers. From the outset, it was clear that Esber was not content to rest on his laurels; he was intent on pushing the boundaries of his craft. One standout piece featured asymmetrical beaded mesh squares paired with slouched trousers, eliciting gasps from the front row as it shimmered under the lights. Esber’s signature hardware made a subtle yet impactful appearance, evolving into new metallic structures that supported the draping of fabric, accentuating key features of the body. Just when it seemed that the trend of cut-outs had run its course, Esber introduced a slinky jersey dress with layers intricately looped together and a bubble hem, demonstrating that there was still plenty of room for innovation in this realm.
The choice of materials was silk, with tufted edges that turned out to be delicate applications on crushed gauze. The most surprising element, however, was the patent leaf-shaped leather, ingeniously crafted from Amazonian tree foliage and bonded with cotton—a testament to Esber’s commitment to sustainability and innovation. Esber described this season’s collection as a “primitive” baseline wardrobe—a foundation upon which personal style could be effortlessly built. The magic, he explained, lay in blending the ease of everyday wear with the sharpness of high fashion. His Paris debut perfectly encapsulated this vision, marking a new chapter in his already illustrious career.
Images courtsey of Christopher Esber