LUISA SPAGNOLI FALL/WINTER 2026-27 COLLECTION

Only when it’s dark we can see the stars in the sky.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
An austere and profound collection, nocturnal and free. There is a particular quality to the light of Manhattan after sunset: a cool, oblique glow that bounces off glass and steel, making everything seem modern and ancient, severe and alive at the same time. This is the light that brings Luisa Spagnoli’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection to life. The collection draws its emotional and formal grammar from New York in the late 1980s and early 1990s: a powerful city with radical elegance, a city of women who moved in a completely autonomous, assertive, and free manner. A fascinating crossroads where the art world of downtown, the fashion of the Upper East Side, club culture, new wave music, and high society briefly met, looked at each other with curiosity, scrutinized each other (and were photographed by Andy Warhol).

“I felt the need to return to something that represents me deeply: the late 1980s and early 1990s. I wanted to reinterpret that atmosphere through my memories of New York at that time,” explains Nicoletta Spagnoli, “A time and place existing in a mood of creative energy, conscious elegance, and women who were beginning to assert themselves with a decisive, clean, authoritative style. An idea of beauty and strength. A style that was rigorous but never cold, sophisticated, with attention to the smallest details.” The collection – presented in a setting reminiscent of the architectural details of the Seagram Building – is made up of defined lines: prominent shoulders, geometric silhouettes, high-waisted trousers, miniskirts, and eye-catching accessories reimagined in a new, more contemporary form, without nostalgia. Here, a coat is no longer just a coat: it is enveloping, but essential. Tweed, herringbone, Glen check, and loden are worked into long silhouettes with an open structural luminosity. The
shoulders are studied, the lapels are precise, the proportions are millimetric. Nothing is improvised.

The chapter on loden tailoring, in particular, evokes the pragmatic elegance of a woman crossing a windswept square, dressed not against the elements but indifferent to them. The faux fur trench coat for daytime, or the long, enveloping faux mink for evening. Color works as it does in Warhol’s art—not decoratively, but philosophically. The dominant register is that of the material itself: chocolate brown, caramel, Manhattan stone grey, cream, midnight black. Forest green and a few touches of mint green.
Knitwear, a hallmark of the fashion house since Luisa Spagnoli’s pioneering innovations in angora in 1928, features sumptuous mohair and merino yarns, in minimalist shapes that prioritize warmth without embellishment. Discreet luxury, garments that occupy the liminal space between sculptural rigor and a second skin. Against this architecture of neutral tones, specific color choices stand out: a mustard yellow jumpsuit, a blue knit, a flash of burgundy, pink, a strip of intense purple, the colors of that era, when women chose freely.

The collection moves through three stylistic scenarios: Daily Attitude, a chapter of daywear with sartorial details; suits with short jackets and marked waists, paired with circle or wrap skirts. Natural Comfort, an exploration of refined and fluid ease; oversized sweaters worn over miniskirts or jumpsuits. Midnight, where the collection reaches its most refined peak: duchesse satin, silk satin, velvet, and black in every weight and finish, integrated into evening silhouettes of remarkable grandeur. Long dresses embellished with draping on sculpted shoulders and backs. Accessories complete the brand’s proposal with thoughtful specificity. Clean-lined handbags in suede, small shoulder bags in soft calfskin or python-print leather that express a desire for material tension; also on footwear, from loafers to printed leather pumps, to the satin version for the evening. Macro gold chains on bracelets, necklaces, and earrings are embellished with rhinestones for the evening. Wool gloves in different colors are sometimes used as a contrasting detail to the colors of the look they are paired with.

A journey that begins in the morning with a long coat and ends at midnight in duchesse satin. Between these two moments, the woman represented in this collection expresses her freedom and moves through the city: she manages appointments, meetings, travels, expresses herself and her opinions. And when she finally goes to dinner, company matters more than anything
else. “I believe that the strong impact that the New York aesthetic of that period had on me is due to one essential factor: the unique intensity of that historical moment. It is precisely that suspended moment that acts as a link between the end of one decade and the dawn of the next, a transition full of energy, vision, and transformation. An intensity that today, in 2026, I feel
resurfacing with the same force,” concludes Nicoletta Spagnoli.

HAIR PARTNER: FRAGILE COSMETICS
MAKE UP PARTNER: AOFM
NAILS PARTNER: MVK

All images courtsey of Luisa Spagnoli